In the past we have avoided reviewing older Luhrs because such
reviews would generally bring us nothing but grief. These boats
are well known for having problems. Here's one that deserves mention.
This is a popular boat and there are a lot of them out there.
But there's no mistaking the reason why. Price, price, price.
This little beauty popped out of the mold with a MSRP of $87,295
back in '88 with twin Crusader 350's. By way of comparison, the
similarly sized 33 Bertram was priced at $133,685, close to double.
Now, if you've ever seen a 33 Berty, then you know that there's
nothing fancy about it. Designed for the guys to go fishing in,
that's it. We'll leave it to you to decide if what you get for
that cost savings of 50 G's balances out to good value
.[We don't mean to be favoring Bertram; it just so happens
that they set the standard in this size boat. There are a lot
of them, so that's what we use by way of comparison.]
We'll start with an interior that is almost entirely vinyl and
foam over plywood panels. We'll spare you any editorializing about
that, but after 11 years of use it doesn't look so good. To say
the least. If you think the formica interiors of older Bertrams
are kinda tacky . . . or perhaps just spartan, this is a real
show stopper. The stuff is everywhere. Yet this would be the least
of anyone's concerns.
The real concerns begin with the hull where a number of areas
of severe stress cracking were found. The worst of these were
around the hull side exhaust ports, the stainless steel bezels
bolted to the hull sides. Here, a large area around each side
was riddled with stress cracks that were more than just gel coat
cracks. These were wide and deep, indicating a condition of seriously
weakened laminate. Why this occurred was a bit perplexing at first,
but then we went and looked from the inside. All this cracking
occurred because the hull sides were very thin with no frames
or other support. While underway, the sides were panting. Then
it was noted that that these ports were very close to the aft
engine room bulkhead, and that the cracks were mostly vertical
in orientation. But the bulkhead should have been adding strength
here, and yet this is where the cracking was occurring. Our conclusion:
a very thin hull with too few frames and bulkheads. Plus there
was a problem with this bulkhead installation. The same old story
with price boats.
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When stress cracks get this big,
it's time to start worrying. |
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Cracks in hull in way of rudder.
Notice the amount of water leakage from the rudder. |
This was not the only place that serious cracking
was observed. Numerous cracks were found up in the bow area around
the chines, deep, prominent cracks. Then there were some lighter
cracks on the bottom forefoot that indicated panel deflection
was occurring. Yet the worst of it was back aft where wood doubler
blocks laminated into the hull for the rudders were found to be
completely broken loose, revealing very large fractures inside.
The fractures were as much as 1/4" wide. For the most part,
it looked like water absorption by the wood simply broke the laminate
apart. [Remember how the ancients quarried rock? They drilled
holes in the rock, inserted wood pegs and then saturated the pegs
with the water. The expanding wood was capable of splitting rock.
That's what happened here. How's this for modern engineering?]
The hull and deck have a horizontal lap joint,
over which a U-shaped plastic rub rail is installed. The deck
is then screwed together through the plastic rail from the bottom
up. Obviously, the idea here was to make the boat quicker and
cheaper to produce. The end result for the boat owner is rub rails
that look like a roller coaster, that end up falling off and a
deck joint that leaks like a sieve because the rub rail traps
water.
Moving on to the superstructure, the bow pulpit
is also cored with wood and it was suffering the same fate as
the hull reinforcements for the rudders. Cracks all over and some
soft spots. The stress cracks around most of the bow rail stanchion
bases was traced there being no doublers on the underside. Along
with the cleats, that were just simply bolted straight to the
deck. Lean on them and they pry the laminate apart. Can you imagine,
there weren't even any washers under the nuts for the mooring
cleats? How cheap or lazy can you get? It's a wonder the cleats
hadn't pulled out. But perhaps the boat had never experienced
a serious storm.
Hearing the bridge deck squeak when it was walked
on altered us to another problem. Actually, the deck didn't squeak;
it was the aluminum pipe frame for the electronics console, bolted
to the top of the helm that squeaked. When you walked on the bridge
deck, the deck sagged or deflected so much that the whole helm
console moved, and the overhead electronics cabinet with it.
 |
Stress cracking around
a stanchion base this severe is more than just a little
stress. In this case, there is no backing plate on the underside
and the core is rotted. The area under the base is constantly
wet so crevice corrosion causes the rust stains. |
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Notice the size of the
props in comparison to the struts and shaft. Would anyone
believe that skinny strut would hold that big prop steady?
Perhaps that's why there's all that nice, fresh, white caulking
around the base. Nor is it hard to divine why the rudder
doubler cracked. The notch in the hull creates a nice hinge
point. Good size rudders though. Steers good. |
Looking further, the cored deck was found to
have deteriorated. We could also mention the cheap vinyl over
plywood bridge side panels that had rotted away. These had been
removed and discarded, leaving the raw fiberglass of the inside
bridge coaming exposed. The plywood cabinet up under the front
of the bridge was suffering a similar fate, and are soon to join
the side panels at the local land fill.
We can also add to this mix of loveliness the
fact that there is a large footwell molding, screwed onto the
forward face of the helm console. All the twisting and flexing
that was going on here resulted in this panel breaking loose from
its fasteners. Once the screw holes in fiberglass become enlarged,
it can never again be refastened without making a mess of things.
The single 295 gallon aluminum fuel tank is mounted
under the cockpit deck in a saddle formed by the hull stringers.
What we saw here was that apparently the hull stringers deflect
so much that the movement and friction was sawing away at the
edges of the fuel tank. On one corner it looked as though the
abrasion was about wear right through the corner of the tank.
About 1/4" of metal on the welded corner was worn away. Yike,
nothing like a couple hundred gallons of gas in the bilge to make
your day. Combined with the fractures occurring around the rudders,
we really had to question the structural integrity of the hull
in this area. But lacking sufficient access to the area (most
of it being taken up by the fuel tank), we were unable to assess
exactly what the problem(s) were.
Since the hull stringers are obviously deflecting
a lot, we took this to explain why the stuffing boxes leaked like
a banshee, the cutlass bearings were badly worn, and the engine
mounts were shot. The drive system was doing a hula dance.
The aft engine room bulkhead was rotting on one
side. The source of the leak that caused this was not discovered.
The engine room hull vents angle forward, bringing
in salt spray. The engines were a rusty mess. So bad that we suspected
that the boat had sunk, but we later proved that it hadn't.
The main engines are not equipped with sea strainers.
The sliding aluminum cabin door has steel rollers
and other hardware, all of which rusted away and was defunct.
Particularly amusing was the ACR remote control
search light electronic control pad. You know, one of those kind
with rubbery little push buttons. The Florida sun had turned all
of these buttons to sticky mush. Concentrated, medicated goo.
Another well-engineered, quality product designed to self distract
before your very eyes.
Okay, so now you know why we've tried to avoid
reviewing Luhrs and other boats like these. It's hard to find
anything good to say about them. What we have here is mobile home
economy applied to boat building. We don't mean to demean people
who live in trailer parks. But we're talking yachts here.
It's up to you to decide whether the low price
is worth the sacrifice of quality. What we see here is $100,000
worth of boat (with add-ons) that, after 11 years, is basically
headed for the grinder. When the client asked us what the boat
was worth, we replied that it wasn't worth anything. The cost
to fix all these problems was more than the original cost of the
boat. Anyone who buys a boat like this will spend most of
their money plugging holes in the dike, trying hold back the avalanche
of costly repairs they will be faced with.
Further, it was clear that the prior owners had
had to plow a lot of money into this boat to keep it going. After
only 11 years, it was painfully obvious that there had been an
extraordinary number of repairs and replacements. Like engines
having been rebuilt more than once because of all the salt spray
going into the engine room. There was very little (if anything)
electrical on this boat that had not been replaced at least once.
The electric panel had been taken apart so many times that the
screws would no longer hold all the parts together, even after
many more screws had been added.
This boat also paints a clear picture of why
older boats of this calibre always have so many jury-rig, substandard
repairs and replacements. So much goes wrong so fast that owners
can't afford to repair things properly. They couldn't afford a
decent quality boat in the first place, so how could they afford
one that costs even more to maintain. They thought they could
get away with buying a price boat, only to find that they
couldn't. Things went to hell so fast they couldn't begin to keep
up with it all. The small leak soon becomes a flood that overwhelms
the owner, forcing him to sell. The boat is then picked up by
someone even less able to afford it than the first owner. After
all, the first owner could at least pay the new boat price, but
the second and third owners are not even at the borderline edge
of affordability. They're buying a broken and clapped out price
boat. The little snowball that started at the top of the hill
soon becomes a behemoth gathering speed and momentum.
Someone recently wrote us saying that we surveyors
were a bunch of elitists with all our talk about Bertrams, Tiaras
and the like, and that we didn't appreciate the plight of the
little guy. "You talk about quality, but most people can't
afford it," he said. Precisely our point, but he seems to
have missed it. We know perfectly well that mere size and price
is what sells these boats. We present you with these reviews so
you can make your own decisions as to whether it's really worth
just buying big versus buy good, but smaller.
Moreover, there isn't a mistake that anyone else
has made that we haven't made ourselves with our own boats. We
have plenty of first hand experience with getting in over our
heads with bargain boats. We have learned that they are no bargains.
There is no pleasure in boating when your boat is killing you
financially. Owning a maintenance hog takes all the fun out of
it. It's not exactly a confidence builder heading out the inlet
when you KNOW your boat isn't right.
Figure in not only the cost, but the amount of
time you're going to spend dealing with it and worrying about
it.
If there is any good news to come out of this
story, it's that the Luhrs company has mended its ways and in
recent years is turning out a better quality product. As you would
expect, that comes with a higher price tag.
| These
are "reviews", not surveys, and bear no resemblance
to our survey reports.
We do not publish the results of the surveys that we perform.
Please note that the purpose of these reviews is educational,
to help you discern the differences in quality among boats
generally. They are not offered as a means to help you evaluate
any particular boat builder. We have no other reviews than
those posted. |
Posted February 26,
1999