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BOAT REVIEWS

Mako 264

by David Pascoe

 

BOOKS
 
 
Mid Size Power Boats by David Pascoe
Mid Size Power Boats
 
Buyers' Guide to Outboard Boats by David Pascoe
Buyers' Guide to Outboard Boats

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Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats by David Pascoe
Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats
2nd Edition
 
Marine Investigations by
Marine Investigations
 
 
  by David Pascoe  


A center console, narrow beam (8'6") open fisherman deep vee hull. We surveyed a 1992 model (in mid '97) fitted with a full tower, dual controls and twin Evinrude 200's mounted on an aluminum transom bracket bolted to the hull. It had an extensive electronics package, including autopilot, Furuno CVS, Trimble NavTrac and many others. The boat had spent its entire life in the Cayman Islands and was kept on davits. The 203 gallon fuel tank gives it fairly good range.

Without a tower, there is nothing impressive looking about this one. The hull style is rather plane-Jane and looks like a mold that's been kicking around south Florida for quite a while. One feature is that it has recessed trim tab pockets. Cockpit has built in rod racks each side, two fish wells, bait well aft, anchor locker in vee up forward and storage under open bow seating forward.

I wasn't particularly impressed with the center console layout which has Morse shift and throttle controls mounted down low at just above knee level, on an angled forward face. It was okay for the shifters, but having to lift the throttles up to accelerate was awkward and difficult, a major design flaw. Steering and engine instrument placement was generally good.

With a 14' tower (above W/L) I expected this boat to be a bit tender and roll excessively, but I was pleasantly surprised. The real strong suit of this boat is, in a word, performance. Flying along at around 40 MPH in a narrow section of the Intra coastal, crowded with other boats and lots of big wakes, the motion in the tower was surprisingly smooth. No heavy bucking, pitching or rolling. She is a heavy boat with a very nice ride, as well it should be with such a narrow beam and deep vee. When hull slams, there are not a lot of loose parts rattling and making noise, common to so many other boats. It actually felt better running from the tower than the lower station, which is unusual. For an outboard, she would pivot on a loose axis and backed down reasonably well. During docking, I could crab her sideways toward the dock very nicely.
 

Mako26-3

The helm layout can only be described as poor, with engine controls poorly placed down low, electronics cabinets that leak badly, and a plastic instrument panel that deteriorated after only 4 years.

Mako26-4

More cheap plastic parts.  There are 7 of these on this boat with the plastic badly mildewed (permanent) and they all look like this. Also note the bad gelcoat blending (molding defect repairs) which ages to a discolored state like this.

 

Originally she had a middling price and overall quality is about the same. The decks are plywood cored; the console is screwed to the deck and it looks like water got into the core on one side as evidenced by a soft spot. There was virtually no access to the internal hull, not on the sides or the bottom, all of which seems to be filled with foam for positive floatation. Tower was bolted screwed to deck but there weren't any significant stress cracks anywhere. Hull had no blisters. Here are a few of our gripes:

  • Red rubber rub rail with insert is sun damaged, checked, badly discolored and very ugly.
  • I have nightmares about foamed in aluminum fuel tanks and this boat has one. It has one of those lovely plastic access ports above the fuel gauge and valves that doesn't seal and leaks water onto the tank top. The problem with foamed tanks is that water collects on the bottom side of the tank (no, the foam doesn't prevent water from contacting it because aluminum tanks expand and contract) and there is no way to determine the condition short of tearing it out.
  • Same goes for red molded plastic instrument panel which was very badly faded.
  • Console front seat has open gap at top which allows water inside of console; battery boxes were full of water and batteries dead.
  • Morse control heads leaked water onto wiring under console.
  • Batteries are mounted in those hideous, el cheapo plastic battery boxes with the belt-buckle straps. The "d" brackets holding the straps cut through them and batteries were sliding around, working all the terminal connections loose.
  • Transom is marginally reinforced for tremendous leverage created by the motor bracket. The transom laminate immediately below the bracket was delaminated.
  • Holes cut for engine controls cut through plywood cored transom were not beveled or sealed with stress cracks developing and possible water into core.
  • Cheap plastic access ports (7 of them) - plastic chalky and very badly mildewed, very unsightly.
  • Only one bilge pump with no space to add another.
  • Plumbing for bait wells and drains uses all plastic parts and plumbing is rather sloppy.
  • Navigation lights didn't meet U.S.C.G. requirements.
  • Stress cracking occurred along chines in after half, and on boat in forward section but not sufficient to indicate potential structural failure, but does indicate some weakness.

 

Mako26-1

Pay $80k for a boat and you hope to get something a little better than this mess. Shoddy wiring and batteries in el cheapo plastic boxes held with belt buckles.

Mako26-2

The aft bilge is a rat's nest hoses, wires and cables and very difficult to reach.

This boat had been sitting out in the Caribbean sun for 4 years uncovered and looks ten years old. With a sale price of around $25k, the seller lost about 60% of his investment in just four years. This was partly due to over investment in extra equipment, but also poor maintenance. But a few design flaws and a lot of plastic didn't help.

 

These are "reviews", not surveys, and bear no resemblance to our survey reports. We do not publish the results of the surveys that we perform. Please note that the purpose of these reviews is educational, to help you discern the differences in quality among boats generally. They are not offered as a means to help you evaluate any particular boat builder. We have no other reviews than those posted.
   

Buyers' Guide to Outboard Boats

Chapter 1    
Basic Considerations for First-time Buyers
 
Chapter 2    
Boat Types & Hull Design Basics
Chapter 3    
Hull Construction
Chapter 4    
Evaluating Boat Hulls
 
Chapter 5    
Power Options  

Chapter 6    
Cockpits, Motors and Trim
 

Chapter 7    
Stress Cracks, Finishes and Surface Defects
 
 

Chapter 8    
Details & Design  

Chapter 9    
Used Motors
  

Chapter 10  
The New Outboard Motor Market
 
Chapter 11  
Boat Rigging
  

Chapter 12  
Research, Pricing and Shopping
  

Chapter 13  
The Art of the Deal
  

272 pages

 

Chapter 1 
Basic Considerations
Chapter
 
Boat Types: Which is Right for You?
Chapter 3  
Old Boats, New Boats and Quality
Chapter 4 
Basic Hull Construction
Chapter 5  
Evaluating Boat Hulls
Chapter 6  
Performance and Sea Keeping
Chapter 7  
Decks & Superstructure
Chapter 8  
Stress Cracks, Finishes and Surface Defects
Chapter 9  
Power Options
Chapter 10
The Engine Room

Chapter 11
Electrical & Plumbing Systems
Chapter 12
Design Details
Chapter 13
Steering, Controls, Systems & Equipment
Chapter 14
The Art of the Deal

Chapter 15
Boat Shopping

Chapter 16
The Survey & Post Survey

Chapter 17
Boat Builders by Company

512 pages

 

Chapter 1   
What is Pre-Purchase Survey?
Chapter 2   
Business Practices and Client Relations

Chapter 3   
Sound vs. Seaworthiness

Chapter 4   
Procedures

Chapter 5   
Hull and Its Structure

Chapter 6   
Surveying the Hull
Chapter 7   
Using Moisture Meters

Chapter 8  
Stress Cracks & Surface Irregularities

Chapter 9   
Deck & Superstructure

Chapter 10   
Cockpits

Chapter 11 
Drive Train

Chapter 12 
Gas Engines

Chapter 13 
Fuel Systems

Chapter 14 
Exhaust Systems

Chapter 15 
Electrical Systems

Chapter 16 
Plumbing Systems

Chapter 17 
Sea Trials

Chapter 18 
Appraisal

Chapter 19 
Reporting

480 pages

 

 

 

 

 

 

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