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One
of the most frequent questions that a marine surveyor is asked is
whether it is worthwhile to paint a fiberglass boat. The answer
is a qualified yes, so long as the owner fully understands the extent
of the work and cost involved. Fortunately, there are some very
clear advantages in doing so.
Most boats still use gelcoat for the exterior finish.
Gelcoat is basically a resin with very high pigmentation content
that gives it it's color. But gelcoat is used for another reason,
and that is as a mold release agent that helps prevent the fiberglass
part from bonding to the mold at the time it is laid up. Unfortunately,
most gel coats have relatively poor resistance to sunlight and other
environmental factors, despite claims to the contrary. Thus, we
see the apparently never ending problem of boat finishes fading
and chalking after only a few years time.
There are very high quality gel coats available
that can hold up over the years, but very few builders use them
because they are quite expensive. Bertram, for example, has always
used a top quality gelcoat that, even after decades of aging, could
be successfully buffed out and polished. But if you wax your boat
and only a few months later it turns dull again, you've got a low
quality gelcoat that won't hold a luster.
For boats using average or poor quality gel coats
that begin to oxidize and chalk early on, painting is the only practical
solution. Unfortunately, painting is expensive, but when done properly
results in a finish that can last for a decade or more. In fact,
with only annual cleaning and waxing, urethane finishes have been
know to last for 15 years or more, even under the harsh Florida
sun. Before making a decision, here are some important factors that
you should consider.
Selecting a Painter Whether you use a yard
or a jobber, beware that the price should not be the only factor
in choosing a painter. The lowest cost will usually translate to
the lowest quality of work. Jobbers tend to come and go with frequency
because painting boats is a rough and difficult business. The ones
who do the best work are usually more than happy to give you references
of prior customers. It will be more than worth your while to investigate
and actually go look at examples of their work.
As a rule, yards generally do higher quality work
because they have a reputation to maintain. But it will cost more
because they have higher overhead, and because they're probably
paying higher labor rates. On the other hand, jobbers tend to be
rather transient and their work can be inconsistent and unreliable.
Be sure that they have a good track record and that they're likely
to be around for while longer should they fail to perform to your
satisfaction. If you're going to use a jobber, you'd be wise to
get them to post a performance bond.
Not only are sprayers of urethane paints required
by law to have an enclosed spray booth for environmental considerations,
but it is not possible to achieve a good result when spraying in
the open atmosphere. Be wary of any painter that does not have a
covered paint shed.
Dark Colors A current trend is to use dark
colors, especially black, to change the appearance, such as painting
the space between windows black, or wide feature stripes. Because
dark colors absorb much more heat, painting large areas in dark
colors can result in damage or distortion to the surfaces being
painted. Remember that fiberglass boats are plastic and somewhat
heat sensitive. Because these plastics are thermosetting, a dark
surface heats up under the sun and then the plastic continues to
cure. This often results in shrinkage that can seriously distort
the surface, resulting in permanent damage. The most serious damage
occurs with cored laminates, particularly foam. You may have noticed
some boats have a checkerboard pattern within these painted surfaces.
This is caused by a secondary cure resulting from painting a cored
laminate black that leads to shrinkage and the core showing through.
Preparation The three most important factors
in getting a good result are preparation, preparation, and preparation.
Seventy-five percent of the cost of painting involves preparation.
Any paint job is only as good as the preparation that precedes it,
and the skill of the people doing the work. Improper preparation
can only result in dissatisfaction and a failed paint job.
Old gel coats are often porous and may have absorbed
years worth of waxes and oils, a condition that reduces the ability
of new paint to adhere to the surface. Thorough dewaxing and sanding
is needed to make sure that contaminates are removed. This is followed
by special primer coats that improve adhesive properties. All surface
irregularities must be smoothed out, old holes and scratches filled
and carefully faired out. There's nothing like a fresh, glossy coat
of new paint to show up surface defects. Unless this work is carefully
accomplished, all existing surface defects will be magnified and
you will not be happy with the result.
Before signing a work order, you should go over
the entire boat with the painter. Review all of the areas that need
repair or special work. Have the painter tell you what needs to
be done to achieve the best possible job, then decide if you're
willing to foot the bill. Don't leave it up to the painter to
make your decisions for you. Make it a point to ask about potential
problems.
Removing Hardware If you've ever seen a
boat that was painted by masking around hardware and painting over
aluminum widow frames and other aluminum or plastic parts, you know
what a bad paint job looks like. To achieve the best result, every
possible piece of hardware should be removed. Yes, this is time-consuming
and costly, but a good quality result cannot be had without doing
so.
When hardware and other fastened-on parts are masked,
this usually results in the paint bridging between the part and
the mounting surface. The paint will eventually crack at this point,
and when it does, water will them begin to migrate under the paint,
resulting in flaking and peeling. This is true for virtually any
kind of part mounted on the boat. That's why its always best to
remove the part if at all possible.
Aluminum window frames and sliding doors
should not be painted over for several reasons. First, because most
frames are anodized and paint will not adhere well. Second, because
the frames have stainless steel screws in them, the dissimilar metals
cause galvanic corrosion. This why we see so many painted window
frames with blistering and peeling paint. If the frames are anodized,
don't paint them. Instead, the frames should be removed before painting.
If the frames are in poor condition, they should be removed, stripped,
sanded and repainted separately.
Plastic Parts should also be removed before
painting, even if you are going to paint the plastic parts. The
reason is that painting over the stainless screws will only result
in corrosion and flaking.
Painting over caulked joints results in an unsightly
mess. Caulking is soft and the paint is hard; therefore the paint
will crack and begin flaking away wherever it is laid over caulking.
For this reason, all caulking must be stripped off prior to painting,
and recaulked afterwards.
Teak Trim All teak trim such as hand railings
and covering boards must be removed before painting. The reason
is that wood holds moisture that will eventually migrate under the
paint and result in peeling. The entire area under the wood should
be completely prepped and painted.
Difficult Areas Small, confined or enclosed
areas such as up under eyebrows or tight spaces on flying bridges
or cockpits are often not amenable to spray painting. The result
is often heavy orange peel or unsightly over spray. Many times this
is completely unavoidable and not the painter's fault. There are
several alternatives to this problem, the first being not to paint
the area if it is not really necessary. Carefully consider how it
will look if you don't paint it. Another is to inquire if the painter
has a skilled brush painter that can use a brush. Although some
brush marks will be visible, really good brush painters can do a
better job than a sprayer in these tight quarters.
Non Skid Decks Decks that have a molded
in non skid surface do not take well to painting. Not only can't
the surface be sanded, but the high points of the texture will wear
the paint away more rapidly and likely leave the surface looking
more unsightly than it was before. Carefully consider whether high
profile non skid surfaces should be painted. You may want to just
paint around them. On the other hand, smooth decks with abrasive
material added to the paint works very well. Less, rather than more
texture is best. Very little abrasive material is needed to achieve
skid resistance, and is much easier to keep clean.
When to Paint To achieve the best results,
boats should be painted when the temperature is between 70 - 80oF
and the humidity below 65%. In the north, the window of opportunity
is rather short unless the painter has an indoor facility. To get
the best price, consider doing the job toward the end of the season
rather than at the beginning.
In the south, particularly Florida, avoid the rainy
season, mid-May to early June and late August through October. Frequent
rains and high humidity can not only ruin a paint job, but the frequent
weather interruptions cause the job to take longer and cost more
because of frequent delays. In Florida, the prime painting season
is late November through April when there is little rain and low
humidity. The peak painting season is January to May, so you'll
likely get better prices in the summer and fall, although you risk
getting lower quality. For bargains, look for a painter with an
inside facility and schedule for late summer and fall.
Making a Work Order The objective of creating
a good contract or work order is that both parties should know what
they're agreeing to. Foremost is the nature of preparation to be
done and a definition of the final result. We all know the difference
between the $129.95 auto paint job and a good one that costs a thousand
dollars. With yachts, its not quite that clear cut, but the end
results are much the same. Remember that if you've driven a hard
bargain for a price, but are not happy with the results, you won't
have a leg to stand on if you haven't specified the quality of work
to be done.
1. Take the time to specify the exact nature of
all the preparation work to be done.
2. Specify the primers and finish coats to be used.
3. Specify the nature of the defects that you will
or will not accept. These include fish eyes (caused by contamination),
dust in finish, runs and sags, over spray and orange peel. Remember
that the later are inevitable in all but the highest (and most expensive)
quality of work.
4. Don't expect a warranty if you paint over aluminum
hardware and trim.
5. Don't pay the full price up front. Pay half
down in advance and half upon completion to your satisfaction.
Proper Care A good paint job should last
for ten years or longer with proper care:
- Don't use harsh detergents or abrasive cleansers for cleaning.
Use only a very soft, natural bristle brush or mop. Never
use plastic or stiff brushes that will scratch the paint.
If you must use an abrasive such as on non skid, remember that
chlorinated cleansers will damage the paint if allowed to remain
in contact for more than a few minutes. Be sure to rise thoroughly,
especially the point where the water runs down the hull side.
- Keep the boat clean. Accumulated dirt and atmospheric fallout
can result in acids forming on the surface of the paint and
damaging it.
- Wash down thoroughly to remove all salt after using, including
the hull sides.
- Wax the boat at least once per year, except for walking surfaces,
or course.
- Avoid ice damage; cover the boat during winter lay up.
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